Stripped Down Spring

Python strips from Valentino and bubblegum loops from Christopher Kane Ready to strip down for Spring? On the SS13 runways, a fistful of designers took to their scissors to slay standard notions of dress, skirt, and blouse. At Valentino, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli killed two trendbirds with one stone, using Spring’s ubiquitous snakeskin as bold strips on an otherwise subtle, semitransparent and ultrafeminine day dress. Christopher... Read More

PFW SS13: Haider Ackermann’s Polka Dot Enchantment

Kasia Struss in Haider Ackermann, Spring 2013 2012 marks ten years of Haider Ackermann’s signature layered richness on the Paris runways. His androgynous characters have cut a unique path throughout the years, reflecting common intellectual roots with fellow Antwerp-trained designers Dries, Demeuelemeester and the like. An intense level of cerebral discipline is always balanced by just enough tousled dishevelment to keep it oh so cool. For Spring... Read More

PFW SS13: Alexander McQueen’s Flowers And Bees

Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2013 Sarah Burton poured on the honey for her SS13 Alexander McQueen collection in Paris last Tuesday. The collection explored the sweetly sensuous relationship between flowers and the bees that love them. The show started in the hive, with a series of glorious wasp-waisted, forties-inspired suit silhouettes embellished with variations on a black and gold honeycomb motif. (One could see the through line between these... Read More

PFW 2013: Dries Van Noten’s Grunge Goddess

Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer 2013 It’s getting tough to be objective about Dries Van Noten. When a designer turns out one splendid collection after another, season after season, we come to expect nothing less – and it’s exactly at that point that one has to be careful not to assign greatness to a collection simply because we’ve come to believe that the designer can do no wrong. With Dries, I look forward to seeing his collections... Read More

LFW SS13: Erdem’s Extraterrestrial Garden Party

Erdem, Spring/Summer 2013 Erdem Moralioglu found a new breed of lady to dress up for his Spring/Summer 2013 Erdem collection: the gentlewoman from another planet. He imagined a visitor from another world doing her best to fit in with the well-bred ladies of Earth. This made for some special moments of wacky prettiness comprised of Spring’s favorite new flavor, python, patchworked with muted ladylike prints in colors of butter and powder blue;... Read More

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