PFW SS13: Haider Ackermann’s Polka Dot Enchantment

Kasia Struss in Haider Ackermann, Spring 2013 2012 marks ten years of Haider Ackermann’s signature layered richness on the Paris runways. His androgynous characters have cut a unique path throughout the years, reflecting common intellectual roots with fellow Antwerp-trained designers Dries, Demeuelemeester and the like. An intense level of cerebral discipline is always balanced by just enough tousled dishevelment to keep it oh so cool. For Spring... Read More

PFW SS13: Alexander McQueen’s Flowers And Bees

Alexander McQueen, Spring/Summer 2013 Sarah Burton poured on the honey for her SS13 Alexander McQueen collection in Paris last Tuesday. The collection explored the sweetly sensuous relationship between flowers and the bees that love them. The show started in the hive, with a series of glorious wasp-waisted, forties-inspired suit silhouettes embellished with variations on a black and gold honeycomb motif. (One could see the through line between these... Read More

PFW 2013: Dries Van Noten’s Grunge Goddess

Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer 2013 It’s getting tough to be objective about Dries Van Noten. When a designer turns out one splendid collection after another, season after season, we come to expect nothing less – and it’s exactly at that point that one has to be careful not to assign greatness to a collection simply because we’ve come to believe that the designer can do no wrong. With Dries, I look forward to seeing his collections... Read More

Dia de los Butterflies

“Here are letters, all yours (already on the folds their traces of jerky pencil are fading). By day, folded up, they sleep, amid dry flowers, in my fragrant drawer, but at night they fly out, semitransparent and weak, they glide and flutter over me, like butterflies: one I may catch in my fingers, and at the night blue I look through it, and in it the stars shine through.” -Vladimir Nabokov, 1923 Translated from the Russian by Brian Boyd... Read More

The Scarlet Letter

Paris Fashion Week closed in a desert of beige, caramel, and taupe, but the drama found its way in through the back door.  A trickle of lavish color seeped into collections from New York to Paris.  Blood-red velvets, leather, jacquard and lace insinuated themselves across a wide swath of collections, reminding me that on some level we’re still feeling our fangs and thirsting for something dark and rich. Altuzarra (Sigrid Agren), Alexander Wang... Read More