FW14: Marni’s Twisted Birds

Marni is one Milan show we always await with bated breath. Not always accessible and certainly not always pretty, Consuelo Castiglioni’s collections are nevertheless consistently packed with power, intellectual interest, and a different perspective on femininity. Like Prada, Marni often eschews sex appeal in favor of something more articulate, more thoughtful, more experimental – all of which is a welcome respite from the overt sexiness... Read More

FW14: Peter Pilotto’s Mountain Majesty

Peter Pilotto‘s Christopher de Vos and Peter Pilotto produced another swoon-worthy collection to salivate over for F/W 14. Overt themes included mountains, geometric colorblocking, balaclavaesque turtlenecks, and bejeweled separates. To me the models looked like a mountain-dwelling, gemstone mining, sacred geometry-observing subspecies. Peter Pilotto’s collections never seem to falter when it comes to richness of color, texture, and design.... Read More

FW14: Burberry Does Bloomsbury

We loved the painterly palette and flowing, floral touch at Burberry Prorsum this season. Christopher Bailey summoned the Bloomsbury women, Vanessa Bell and Virginia Woolf as his muses, and the artist/writer sisters’ intelligence and femininity were reflected in perfect balance. Though there were plenty of painted and printed flowers, these were unfussy and anything but saccharine. There was a natural practicality to many of the pieces, which... Read More

FW14: Prabal Gurung’s Mustang Kingdom

Prabal Gurung’s FW14 collection seemed softer than usual, characterized by a more subtle color palette than we’ve come to expect from this lover of florid brights. This subtle grey and navy permeated a cozy queue of chunky patchworked knits complemented by wispy asymmetrical chiffon skirts – though a rich thread of persimmon/tangerine/candy apple red/bordeaux wove its way through the collection as well, reaching a crescendo with... Read More