FW14: Marni’s Twisted Birds

Marni is one Milan show we always await with bated breath. Not always accessible and certainly not always pretty, Consuelo Castiglioni’s collections are nevertheless consistently packed with power, intellectual interest, and a different perspective on femininity. Like Prada, Marni often eschews sex appeal in favor of something more articulate, more thoughtful, more experimental – all of which is a welcome respite from the overt sexiness... Read More

Met Ball 1: Carey Mulligan In Prada

“Schiaparelli was thirty-seven and Prada was thirty-nine when they delivered their first collections. But experience of the real world, which was a man’s world for both of them, made them intolerant of female passivity and desperation. They don’t really care what makes a woman desirable to men. Their work asks you to consider what makes a woman desirable to herself.” –Judith Thurman, “Radical Chic,” The New... Read More

Mad World

The long wait is over for Season 5…and we’ve officially entered the late 60s with the women and men of Mad Men. Op art now graces the walls of Sterling Cooper Draper Pryce where Rothko’s abstract impressionist multiforms once hung. Mary Quant has begun to work her hemline-shrinking magic on forward-thinking birds like Megan, Don’s new wife, and boundary-pushing Peggy. The Dolly Birds have flown the coop! Hence my imaginings... Read More

Feline Grace

Clawing at the coattails of Fall 2010’s obsession with all things feral came another contingent of wild felines for Resort 2011. This year leopard, cheetah and jaguar have made themselves at home not only with Dolce and Gabbana and Roberto Cavalli, where they are familiar and loyal pets, but also at Dries Van Noten, Givenchy, and Haider Ackermann, where such spottings  are somewhat less frequent. So why this continuing preoccupation with... Read More

The Scarlet Letter

Paris Fashion Week closed in a desert of beige, caramel, and taupe, but the drama found its way in through the back door.  A trickle of lavish color seeped into collections from New York to Paris.  Blood-red velvets, leather, jacquard and lace insinuated themselves across a wide swath of collections, reminding me that on some level we’re still feeling our fangs and thirsting for something dark and rich. Altuzarra (Sigrid Agren), Alexander Wang... Read More