PFW SS13: Haider Ackermann’s Polka Dot Enchantment


Kasia Struss in Haider Ackermann, Spring 2013

2012 marks ten years of Haider Ackermann’s signature layered richness on the Paris runways. His androgynous characters have cut a unique path throughout the years, reflecting common intellectual roots with fellow Antwerp-trained designers Dries, Demeuelemeester and the like. An intense level of cerebral discipline is always balanced by just enough tousled dishevelment to keep it oh so cool.

For Spring 2013, Ackermann simplified his palette – none of the deep turquoises, bright aquas nor deep persimmons that have graced the designer’s recent collections. Yet somehow the chromatic simplicity of black, heather gray, white, navy, and muted rust tones still managed to elicit that elusive swoon factor throughout.

This was due to a few factors:

  1. The poetic embrace of loose, draped, asymmetric, multi-layered slouchiness, with a hint of Japonisme and pajama inspirations (Japanjamas?).
  2. The rich caliber of his fabrics. As Heidi would say, “that looks so expensive!”
  3. The fantastic combination of prints – polka dots in varying sizes, thin horizontal stripes, and a wonderful variety of textural washi-like patterns.

Yet another collection from Haider that I yearn to own – wear – hell, even just touch.



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