PFW 2013: Dries Van Noten’s Grunge Goddess

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Dries Van Noten, Spring/Summer 2013

It’s getting tough to be objective about Dries Van Noten. When a designer turns out one splendid collection after another, season after season, we come to expect nothing less – and it’s exactly at that point that one has to be careful not to assign greatness to a collection simply because we’ve come to believe that the designer can do no wrong. With Dries, I look forward to seeing his collections so intensely that it would just be heart-wrenching to be let down.

Thankfully, such a thing just never seems to happen, as each collection simply blows me away anew. For Spring 2013, he achieved a breathtaking level of unkempt, beautiful cool that sublimated the disheveled grunge of the nineties to a nearly angelic realm.

It was competing flavors of plaid and floral, yes, jumbled just-so atop one another, but this was no lumberjack flannel, folks. No, Dries does his plaids in organza, taffeta, and glittering lamé, and his clashing diaphanous florals in drop-waist long babydoll gowns that billow about the body and the interior layers like the robes of the heavenly host. And when it wasn’t flowing dresses, it was fantastic menswear-inspired looks softened and loosened up with filmy transparency, flowing lines, three dimensional flowers, and a purposeful dishevelment.

The styling looked effortlessly of-the-moment while also managing to evoke a deep nineties nostalgia. Grunge dolls played dress up in white-framed Cobainesque glasses and deep magenta Courtney Love lips. Models channeled a sweet mix of all of our favorite nineties icons, and Julia Nobis easily took home the Kurt lookalike prize with her center-parted dirty blond mane and pale skin.

In all, Van Noten delivered a poignant collection that paid tribute to a precious past moment in time while extending richly into the present and future. “Come as you are,” he seems to say, “as you were, as I want you to be.”

 

 

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One Response to “PFW 2013: Dries Van Noten’s Grunge Goddess”
  1. CARMEN says:

    nice..i d like…

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