Redefining Dior

Raf Simons trumped expectations in his debut Dior collection for Fall 2012 Couture, sending out a masterful wardrobe full of precise tailoring and rife with Dior’s signature New Look-inspired shapes. Editors around the world breathed a collective sigh of relief which quickly turned to oohs and aahs as Simons ensured that Dior would not only maintain its relevance post-Galliano, but would resolutely declare its superiority.

The most delectable looks were the ornate ball gowns that halted at the upper thigh, giving way to slim, sharply-cut black cigarette pants and pointy-toed pumps. This modernization of Dior’s classic silhouette was delightful, especially in the look below, with the bright lemon sheer layer and rich brocade.

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Raf Simons’ debut collection for Christan Dior, Fall 2012 Couture

Simons’ clean lines, eyepopping color, and experimental fabrics guaranteed the modernity of a collection that was, in large part, an homage to Christian Dior. A foray into abstract, tie-dye-esque prints mid-show was a detour, but an interesting one that amply demonstrated Simons’ ability to keep up with the print-hungry tastemakers while maintaining the precision of construction required for this venerable house.

Hair and makeup were also thoroughly of-the-moment and complementary to the collection. While not shying away from the indulgence in both strong eyes AND strong lips that has become a signature at Dior, makeup artist Pat McGrath provided a palette of neon brights that was youthful, bright, and fun – with none of the outdated garishness that we’ve tried to ignore at Dior for the past few years.

And what will September bring for Simons’ first ready to wear collection? We’ll all be on the edge of our seats to see how he continues to balance his clean simplicity with the exuberance of the Dior brand.

 

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